All posts filed under: Expat Living

on eid-al-fitr

Published by

It was Eid al-Fitr, following the month of Ramadan, and we had a goal: to win over the neighbors on our hilltop. our strategy: cookies, as many kinds as we could manage to churn out of our small stove. We mixed and rolled and patted… …and raided the grocery store and our kitchens for the most cookie-esque ingredients we could muster. We did well, with an assortment of shortbreads: cocoa, coffee and chocolate, lime, date and nutmeg, cardamom, and peanut butter with blueberry (green!) jam. We packed and wrapped in flashy, Eid-appropriate paper, tied with a string. …and headed out into the neighborhood, intent on making smiles, and crumbs, and friends.

on a trip to the camel market

Published by

I’ve seen a few camels from a distance since arriving to this place, and I’ve had my fair share of camel delicacies (spiced hump!). Yet, the mystery remained–what strange creatures! For an opportunity to get up close and (very) personal with these bizarrely majestic (or majestically bizarre) animals, we headed to the Hargeisa camel market of a Friday. It was a light day at the market, as a holiday had been declared; camel trade just wasn’t what it usually is. Nevertheless, there were gracious and comedic regulars all too ready to help us get to know the stock for sale. For future reference: a camel sounds precisely like a dinosaur. Or, like a dinosaur ought to sound. We hemmed and hawed and snapped photos, but decided not to purchase on that particular day; perhaps we’ll be back when we’re ready to reconsider. For now, much appreciation to the market folk who allowed us to sniff, pet, and ogle, and especially those who helped us get out of the way just in time. Other finds at the …

on s’mores in s’maliland

Published by

Granted, I was looking for an excuse to eat melty, roasted marshmallows. On the record, however, s’mores were a legitimate morale-boosting, Ramadan-welcoming, staff-bonding activity. The lovely Salma managed to find the perfect – perfect! – tools on on her first-ever hunt for roasting sticks. And it only took three… … well, maybe 4 people to finally get the coals burning in the whipping wind of this Hargeisa hilltop. But eventually we were up and running, and ready to roast. The uninitiated had no hesitations, and jumped right in, Spearing their marshmallows and coaxing the perfect golden crust. (A few required a little moral support, considering the complexities of the ideal s’more). But they liked – success! – they liked, or so I guessed, based on the seconds, thirds… er, fourths… and the s’more-inspired smiles all around. Happy Roasting, from Hargeisa!

on window shopping

Published by

In Hargeisa, window shopping takes on a whole new meaning, as vendors of everything from shawarma to juice to potted plants will sidle up to your car, haggle a price, and make a sale. They’ll even offer a tasty sample, to entice the dollars and shillings from your pocket… as curious onlookers consider the scene. Side note: two, large, off-season watermelons cost $20 USD. It wasn’t until we drove away that my colleagues mentioned I could get the same for about $1 USD in a few weeks. Should’ve gone with the papaya…

on henna, and turning 30

Published by

She’s a true artist, free-handing wild, whimsical designs on not one, but four out-stretched arms. she brought in an ipad for musical inspiration, and sang along to the tunes, turning the volume down only slightly when the adhaan sounded through the windows. There was something about her confidence, her self-assurance, as she embraced a new canvas and created in the moment. A finesse that comes with experience, a groundedness, a simplicity of movement that was so impressive, even as she spun delicate designs. In my 30th year, I hope to remain inspired by this scene, this spirit, this act of grace and confident, complex creativity. Happy birthday to the June bugs and the summer babies. [Hargeisa, Somaliland]

on top chef, somaliland

Published by

The ceremony began late evening, after guests were welcomed to the courtyard of the college. Friends, family, loved ones and supporters of this very first graduating class were excited to see their new skills put to the test. Even the Somaliland Minister of Education was in attendance, and full of pride. And after… ahem… a rather extended introduction from esteemed guests and college figures, interrupted only briefly for the maghrib prayer, the new graduates, led by their beloved instructors, made the way to their ceremonious spots. Who are these graduates, you ask ? Mostly Somali or Somalilanders, mostly women, with all manner of spectacular goals, from opening their own restaurants, to establishing their own culinary non-profits, to feeding their luckiest of families. Once the ceremony was completed, and degrees and certificates distributed, the real challenge got underway. as night fell, and while onlookers and guests salivated, dish after delicious dish appeared on tables set before the judges, looking their best for the ultimate taste test. Guests oohed … and aahed … and loaded up Hargeisa’s digital social networks with image upon …