All posts tagged: Somaliland

what’s to eat: camel

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We had a long list of errands to run in Hargeisa, including to the National Bank, the tailor, the office supply store, and the market. To make it through a draining morning, we needed a breakfast fit for kings…er, hardy nomads. We made our way to Boodaale, the sort of down-a-back-alley joint that is full of regulars, locals, and others who know their way around a camel. Before entering through the plastic curtain, I was advised to tuck in a bit, that is to say, tuck my fringe well into my headscarf, to avoid any offending impressions. We climbed our way up to the second floor, and seated ourselves at a rustic wooden table. soon enough, a waiter came with a wide metal bowl and two mugs: camel soup. bits of white, chewy camel hump bobbed in a clear, oily broth. The soup was incredibly rich, the kind of breakfast to get you through to lunch without pause. But that wasn’t all! The main course came soon enough: a platter of camel liver and camel hump with slices …

on henna, and turning 30

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She’s a true artist, free-handing wild, whimsical designs on not one, but four out-stretched arms. she brought in an ipad for musical inspiration, and sang along to the tunes, turning the volume down only slightly when the adhaan sounded through the windows. There was something about her confidence, her self-assurance, as she embraced a new canvas and created in the moment. A finesse that comes with experience, a groundedness, a simplicity of movement that was so impressive, even as she spun delicate designs. In my 30th year, I hope to remain inspired by this scene, this spirit, this act of grace and confident, complex creativity. Happy birthday to the June bugs and the summer babies. [Hargeisa, Somaliland]

on top chef, somaliland

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The ceremony began late evening, after guests were welcomed to the courtyard of the college. Friends, family, loved ones and supporters of this very first graduating class were excited to see their new skills put to the test. Even the Somaliland Minister of Education was in attendance, and full of pride. And after… ahem… a rather extended introduction from esteemed guests and college figures, interrupted only briefly for the maghrib prayer, the new graduates, led by their beloved instructors, made the way to their ceremonious spots. Who are these graduates, you ask ? Mostly Somali or Somalilanders, mostly women, with all manner of spectacular goals, from opening their own restaurants, to establishing their own culinary non-profits, to feeding their luckiest of families. Once the ceremony was completed, and degrees and certificates distributed, the real challenge got underway. as night fell, and while onlookers and guests salivated, dish after delicious dish appeared on tables set before the judges, looking their best for the ultimate taste test. Guests oohed … and aahed … and loaded up Hargeisa’s digital social networks with image upon …